The Fried Dough Ho

It was pretty funny; Lisa and I were sitting at the bar at Baker & Banker, chatting with an affable server named David, deciding on the dinner choices. The desirability (or not) of a dessert will dictate whether we are sharing variations of starters and entrées. Do we share two starters and two entrées? Three starters and one entrée?  And whilst perusing the menu — and not realizing the dessert menu was printed on the back — I began to inquire about the availability of a fried dough delicacy (because I always try and check, just to make sure).  Before I finished my sentence, David suggested we save room for their specialty dessert, PB&J Doughnuts; strawberry jam-filled goodies with peanut butter dipping sauce. Knowing smiles grow between Lisa and me — she knows me so well and knows how happy this makes me — to have such serendipity.

Our diner completed, David advised us that the doughnuts are normally served in threes and would we like four on our order since we were sharing. Trying to watch the ever-growing waistline, three should be more than enough, thanks. The elongated plate arrived with perfectly round globes of wonder. Warm and crunchy, this was Jelly Doughnut Nirvana with warm, house-made strawberry jam filling oozing out with the first bite (a rarity!). So often with a jelly doughnut, one must eat through a third or a half of the doughnut before the jelly appears. Encrusted with granulated sugar, we took our first bites naked, without the dipping sauce and with that first unctuous fruit hitting our taste buds, smiles and groans were immediately emitted.

The cake structure was light and spongy with a superb amount of tooth to the crunchy exterior. The dipping sauce was made of three simple ingredients; peanut butter, cream, and powdered sugar. The doughnut-alone-bite was perfectly lovely, but laden with the creamy sauce, one is transported back to childhood with a primal memory of wholesome goodness which has been elevated to elegance while still maintaining that sense of familial comfort.

The biggest problem for me is that these are available to me within walking distance and I could see a serious addiction burgeoning.

1701 Octavia St
(between Bush St & Austin St)
San Francisco, CA 94109
Neighborhoods: Pacific Heights, Lower Pac Heights, Japantown
(415) 351-2500

The sub-title of this blog is “doughnuts and more” and while I have briefly bantered about beignets, I have not yet ventured into the myriad of other ethnic fried dough offerings until now. And that my first savory offering is one of my favorite Japanese tastes, is not surprising that it is, in fact, a fried dough.

Takoyaki (たこ焼き or 蛸焼) means “pan-fried octopus” and while occasionally baked, they are most assuredly usually fried. It was a grand adventure with two darling friends to one of the only two restaurants in San Francisco that offer takoyaki, Tampopo — a restaurant more known for its affordable and bountiful bowls of noodles.

This coming weekend is the Cherry Blossom Festival in San Francisco and there will be long lines of people waiting for this classic street food which originated in Osaka. Perhaps I will be able to sneak out of my booth to snap a picture, as it is easily the one food booth that consistently has the longest line.

About the size of a golf ball, takoyaki are made from a simple egg-based batter with flour where the liquid component is dashi a clear broth traditionally made from sea kelp. Dashi is the broth which forms the base for miso soup. The combination of the three ingredients produces a smooth, luxurious batter into which is added chopped boiled baby octopus and sometimes diced ginger, shrimp, and a little green onion.

Once mixed together, the dough is poured into a special cast-iron pan which is akin to the Dutch æbleskive pan with half-round indentations. The chef deftly spins the frying batter into the golden orbs which are then served with very distinctive toppings; mayonnaise, okonomiyaki sauce*, shaved bonito flakes, and a very fine sprinkling of aonori. The okonomiyaki sauce is thick, dark and rich and is part soy, ketchup, Worcestershire, and a few other tasty ingredients. Aonori, or green laver, is yet another type of seaweed which is pungent and a bit tangy.

If you have the preconceived notion of most fried doughs having a firm or crunchy exterior to them, here it is not the case; takoyaki are tender and soft. The interior can often still be a bit gooey but finding that special tendril or rich octopus bite inside is the real treat. While I know of Japanese school children being given takoyaki in their bento lunch boxes, they are best eaten warm. This way you can see the paper-thin bonito flakes dancing back and forth due to the heat from the seafood balls. A treat, if you can find them — and worth seeking out.

*Okonomiyaki is a type of savory pancake — another favorite of mine — a grilled batter stuffed with ingredients like shrimp, pork, cabbage, and also topped with the same ingredients that go on takoyaki.

1740 Buchanan St
(between Post St & Sutter St)
San Francisco, CA 94115
Neighborhoods: Pacific Heights, Lower Pac Heights, Japantown
(415) 346-7132

I wish I could take credit for this photograph. The image is a well known sculpture in Seattle entitled Black Sun, dated 1969, by Isamu Noguchi. It is located across from the Seattle Art Museum and is considered one of the “most touched, caressed, and fondled pieces of public art in Seattle.”

And the sculpture is of a giant doughnut. It is reputed that the rock band, Soundgarten, wrote the song Black Hole Sun based on this sculpture. Most people line up the Space Needle through the hole and while I took a picture during my recent visit, mine is not nearly as gorgeous as this, taken by Sunrisesoup.

So I will let you contemplate this stunning photograph of a pretty fantastic piece of art. Here’s what it looks like without the mist:

In the French language, Trompe-l’œil means to fool the eye. Personally, I am big fan of Trompe-l’œil as an art form. I have practiced it myself — painting a living room ceiling blue with fluffy clouds giving the appearance of a lovely Spring day with the naked sky above me. I learned it as a decorating motif, making the eye see more space than really exists. There are very famous renditions of Trompe-l’œil in the art world, including the modern Carlo Marchiori and his muralist haven, Ca’Toga in Calistoga.

And there is a slight sense of irony that I experienced a little Trompe-l’œil moment at San Francisco’s Coffee Bar. Located in an area in SoMa (South of Market, for those you unfamiliar with our neighborhoods), I had just finished a painting lesson when I settled in at the upstairs bar which looks down upon the workers. I am a metalsmith by training and I had been taking painting lessons from Chris Leib to expand my repertoire.

I spied the dark brown, cinnamon-studded morsels in the pastry case and ordered one alongside a latté. I have to say, it was one damn-fine latté. The “doughnut,” however, was not a doughnut at all. My eye had been tricked by its size, demeanor, and gorgeousness. This hunk of dough had not been fried, but baked. It was dry and leaden and crumbly. It was probably vegan (although I have had some very good vegan pastries) in its attempt to be HEALTHY. Apparently the Coffee Bar gets their pastries (or at least this one) from Jasmine Rae Bakery, but here was an attempt to make something decidedly unhealthy less so. Sadly, it didn’t quite succeed in even being a good baked good. Very crumbly and the consistency of the classic Dolly Madison crumb cake but with so much cinnamon as to burn the mouth.

1890 Bryant St
(between 17th St & Mariposa St)
San Francisco, CA 94110
Neighborhood: Mission
(415) 551-8100

Here in San Francisco, in the vast display cases of the Starbucks empire, lie donuts. Bedecked in white frosting and glittering with sparkly, course, decorative sugar, these little 3″ offerings are beguilingly attractive. Offered in white and chocolate cake, their glistening covering is reminiscent of freshly fallen snow just before Christmas. They tease and they taunt; their white draping perfectly covering what anticipates to be a delectable and engaging treat.

Ah, if only it were to be… Well, it is entirely possible that they ARE, when fresh. Unfortunately, the two different times I have tried them, I have found these doughnuts to be dry and crumbly and the frosting to be too sweet; if you are going to sprinkle sugar all over the damn thing, you don’t need to make the frosting THAT sweet.

Now I know that different Starbucks in different regions source their baked goods from various bakeries. When I lived in Los Angeles, I had a serious addiction to a cinnamon twist that existed at a Starbucks near La Cienega Boulevard. Back then, I think many of the breads were also brought in from the famed La Brea Bakery. I even enjoy the Egg Salad Sandwiches from time to time. It is anyone’s best guess where these San Francisco Starbucks are getting their baked goods as they are wildly inconsistent. Sometimes I see Morning Bunz that look and taste amazing and other times, they are obviously from a different supplier.

Regardless, I think you should trust me on this accord; avoid their donuts.