The Fried Dough Ho

Yes, it is true. During a visit to jolly-old England last fall, I was on a mission to experience Grouse, a specialty game bird that is only available during a very short hunting season in the U.K. and is rarely exported to the U.S. Well, if it IS exported, then it is frozen. I did my research to find one of the better places to eat grouse and was recommended to Harwood Arms. I’ll write up that grouse dinner on a different site, but suffice to say I was definitely thrilled that this five course, sumptuous meal culminated in an offering of Fried Dough!

Bramley Apple Doughnuts with Spiced Sugar and Whipped Cream was how it was listed on the menu. These gorgeous puffs, approximately golf-ball sized, arrived in a sturdy wooden basket lined with brown butcher paper and served with whipped cream.

Unlike our American counterparts, I think some explanation is due on the British decadence of baked goods and dairy products. I am a confessed Anglophile and adore most things British and these golden morsels truly exemplified how such a simple thing can be so decadent. To start, being in the company of handful of gorgeous and charming gentlemen, we had been sipping wine all evening and having wine with doughnuts was no exception; here, a 2006 Clos Dady Sauternes.

The doughnuts were studded with a fine Bramley apple purée which provided an underlying richness beyond pure cooked dough. British sugar is finer in texture than American granulated sugar, so the mouth entry is engaging. And then there is the whipped cream. This is not like any American whipped cream; more akin to crème fraîche, it is denser and richer with a slight tang that complements the dried apricot of the Sauternes and the rich apple of the doughnut. And when all was said and done? Yep, they sent me home with some…

29 Walham Grove
London SW6 1QP
Neighbourhood: West Brompton
020 7386 1847

After the long, wet winter, an early Spring Sunday brought about a lovely brunch with Dave and Gina at the San Francisco’s Fillmore District restaurant, Elite Cafe. This was a very special day in so many ways. You see, Darling Gina is the bad-ass, leather-clad, motorcycle-mamma, hot-chick who helped me craft the too-cool-for-words banner you see here at Fried Dough Ho. When I initially came up with the name, I had an idea that a 1950s Burlesque Queen would represent the sultry sauciness of my fried-dough-whoredom, brainstorming that someone like Tempest Storm or Blaze Starr could be Photoshopped with doughnuts masking her attributes. Well it was Gina who thought to go back a few years early and look at the Ziegfeld Girls and when I stumbled on the image of the lovely Evelyn Groves holding a giant hoop, I knew that her naked naughtiness would be the perfect representation of demure and enticing as she grasps the cakey goodness. So here’s a shout-out to Gina!

I like the brunch at Elite Café because of their New Orleans-inspired dishes; shrimp and grits for breakfast can’t be beat. They also have these home-made biscuits that I swear have crack cocaine in them. Even the servers call them Crack Biscuits. And their skillet-served corned beef hash with poached eggs is pretty darn good too. But one of the specialties that invokes New Orleans are their beignets and miniature doughnut holes. The holes come warm and fresh, about a dozen morsels in a small bowl, each less than an inch in diameter, dusted with granulated sugar and cinnamon. They are very addictive and must be eaten while still fresh and warm. Once cold, they lose their charm. At $2.75 a bowl, these should be ordered as you sit down and peruse the menu (along with a Kir Royale or spicey Bloody Mary). 

Elite goes full force with its NoLa menu and no New Orleans knock-off would be worth its salt without a beignet. At $2.00 each, this is where Elite falls short, I’m afraid. Approximately 2″ x 3″ and heavily dusted with powdered sugar, these are heavy and laden and on several occasions, still doughy and gummy inside (as in these pictures). Instead of light and fluffy and addictive, one bite of this door stop was enough for me. Go to Elite Café, yes, but stick to the holes and the biscuits!

2049 Fillmore St
(between California St & Pine St)
San Francisco, CA 94115
Neighborhoods: Pacific Heights, Lower Pac Heights
(415) 346-8400